‘Nonnas’ whets the appetite with old-fashion charm
Like an overstuffed cannoli, “Nonnas” is sweet, cheesy and abundant in empty calories. It’s comfort food to the max, the sort of movie that epitomizes the best kind of mindless entertainment, courtesy of a sensational cast showcasing a host of alumni from “The Sopranos.”
But it begins with its lead, Vince Vaughn, on a roll of late with Apple TV+’s superb “Bad Monkey” and now this fact-based entrée about a grieving son honoring his late mother by opening a quaint Italian bistro staffed by real grandmas, aka Nonnas. Their recipes are authentic, but the movie conceived by writer Liz Maccie – and picked up by Netflix – is mostly a batch of contrivances overseasoned with ethnic stereotypes.
Yet, Vaughn always keeps it real by swapping out his trademark sarcasm for genuine emotion. For once, he doesn’t need to be “the show,” content to cede the limelight to a quartet of delightful doyennes in Susan Sarandon, Talia Shire, Brenda Vaccaro and Lorraine Bracco. It’s some of the best work of his career, eliciting empathy at nearly every turn, as his Joe Scaravella moves heaven, Earth and city bureaucrats to realize his longshot dream.
That would be his Staten Island trattoria, Enoteca Maria, so named in tribute to his mother (Kate Eastman) and nonna (Karen Giordano), who’ve left him with his most treasured childhood memory, bearing witness to the pair’s meticulous preparation of Sunday dinners to die for. Now, bolstered by his $200,000 inheritance, he seeks to resurrect those remembrances and share them with the entire city of New York.
What ensues is a predictable melding of “Rocky” and “My Big Fat Greek Wedding,” as cultural celebrations bump up against insurmountable odds, making for some heart-tugging moments. All while we’re tantalized by heaping helpings of mouth-watering lasagna, pizza and tiramisu. Not so much the capuzzelle, which is the specialty of Bracco’s Roberta, the most cantankerous of the chefs, and a dish of baked sheep’s head that gets the goat of Vaccaro’s strictly Sicilian Antonella.
Luckily, there’s Shire’s former nun, Teresa, around to keep the peace. Notably, when Sarandon’s sexually self-confident hairdresser, Gia, arrives on the scene as the eatery’s spicy pastry chef. She’s a breast cancer survivor who has undergone a double mastectomy. It made her stronger, and a bit ballsy in unabashedly flaunting her new voluptuous implants, much to the shock of the other three.
It’s that diversity of personalities, cooking styles and level of self-esteem that provides the key ingredients of what director Stephen Chbosky is dishing out. With a resume that includes “Wonder,” “Dear Evan Hansen” and “The Perks of Being a Wallflower,” Chbosky is becoming the go-to guy when sentimentality is the featured menu item. And, boy, does he ladle it on, as thick as Maria’s secret “gravy.”
Sure, it’s sappy. But sappy is what we could all use during these turbulent times. And with a cast this good serving it up, you can’t help but succumb. Plus, how great is it to see Bracco back with her old “Sopranos” paisanos Drea de Matteo and Michael Rispoli?
The latter serves as the designated villain of the piece, a Staten Island street vendor who doesn’t like that Joe is an “outsider” and works diligently to sabotage Enoteca Maria’s success. De Matteo, who hasn’t aged a bit since “The Sopranos” debuted a quarter century ago, delivers her requisite sass as Stella, the wife of Joe’s devoted best friend, Bruno (Joe Manganiello), a guy who will do anything to make his pal’s vision a reality. And therein lies the film’s winning concoction: the beauty of friendship mixed with the power of community. These are decades-long relationships that have been allowed to slowly simmer into a hearty stew. Age, upbringing, values … none of that matters. It’s all about helping each other out and asking for nothing in return, neighbors having their neighbors’ backs.
It’s a beautiful thing, as is Joe’s renewed acquaintance with Antonella’s neighbor, the recently widowed Olivia (Linda Cardellini), always the smartest biscotti in the room. Theirs is a bittersweet romance, all about taking chances and overcoming adversity the same way Joe did when he created a grub haven that “feels like family.”
“Nonnas” is representative of that mission statement, engendering an environment where top-notch actors set aside their egos for the good of the team. It doesn’t always work. At times, you’ll find your eyes rolling and your patience tried. But once all is digested, you feel satiated as belief in the healing power of food is deliciously renewed.
Movie review
Nonnas
Rated: Not rated
Cast: Vince Vaughn, Susan Sarandon, Brenda Vaccaro, Talia Shire, Lorraine Bracco, Linda Cardellini, Joe Manganiello, Drea de Matteo, Campbell Scott and Michael Rispoli
Director: Stephen Chbosky
Writer: Liz Maccie
Runtime: 111 minutes
Where: Streaming on Netflix beginning May 9
Grade: B-
